We're going to Serbia and Bulgaria! Read on to "travel" with us.

Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Dina reporting. 

Whew! Well, that's Belgrade almost done. After three action-packed days, we're off to our next destination tomorrow: Pazardzhik, Bulgaria!

What did we learn in Serbia? We had intense workshops with two master singers of Serbian folklore, Svetlana Spajic (who rearranged our molecules and took us deep through pronunciation, tone production, expression, coordination between lead and accompanying voices, the works) and Sanja Rankevic (who provided a broad spectrum of repertoire, including a deliciously crunchy Ganga, and all of it enhanced by some demonstrations with her university students). 

In short: This isn't like Bulgarian singing at all. ;-) 

Personally for me, it's a little intimidating feeling like a rank beginner again. But at the same time it's exciting to get such a treasure trove of material to discover and work on, and I can't wait to really internalize it and work on it and make it Dunava repertoire.

But right now, it just feels like my brain is full (and I think it's the same for all of us). We've got a nice collection of recordings and videos to review, and at least tomorrow is "just" a travel day, so we have a little time to process. 

I think there were other non-workshop adventures had by others -- such as Fiore searching high and low for trubachi (Serbian brass band), only to stumble on some at a wedding a block from our hotel. Jenny, Merdith, Ramona, Tedy and I went exploring and came upon a street where every restaurant featured a live band serenading guests (it reminded me a bit of Beale Street in Memphis, but -- Serbian!). We ate ceasar salad covered with bacon, "aromatic potatoes" that turned out to be french fries, and discovered the butter-cream hybrid kaymak. (Which needs to stay faaaaar away from me, omg it's the most delicious stuff ever.) And yes, of course: meat. Svetlana fed us an abundant lunch on our last day with her, including a big plate of sausages and ham and meatballs, and lepinja bread. Oof. 

Our teachers and everyone we met was so kind and generous and encouraging. We'll definitely be looking for opportunities to connect with Svetlana and Sanja again. 



Tuesday, July 29, 2025

Belgrade, Workshop 1

 Hello, this is Jenny. So far, it’s not too hot here — thanks to whatever science happened to make it so!



Tuesday, July 1, 2025

We're doing it again!

Hello, world! It's Dunava!

We are not regular bloggers, and does anyone even still read blogs these days...?

But we are about to head back to the Balkans, and so we'll revive this online journal to keep our friends at home appraised of our adventures. 

Our trip is from July 28 - August 11, and during that time: 

  • We'll spend 3 days in Belgrade, studying with two master singers and educators: Sanja Ranković and Svetlana Spajić
  • We'll then head to Bulgaria to study with Tzvetanka Varimezova, who is also organizing a concert with us, the Danish choir Usmifka, and the choir of the Pazardzhik ensemble
  • We'll travel to Burgas to meet for personalized lessons with Ana Borisova
  • We'll visit the festival at Koprivshtitsa and will perform on the stage in the center of town!
That's what we have planned so far, but more is in the works. We're so excited!

Here's a photo of Tzvetanka during a visit to Seattle last year:




A zillion thanks to our very generous community, who is making this trip possible with some significant financial support. We are so lucky to have such dedicated fans and friends! 



Monday, October 6, 2014

A Musical Journey

Ramona writing.

Now that everyone has returned and is settling into their normal rhythm here in the Northwest, it is time to process the massive and somewhat overwhelming amount of music we were able to record along our journey. I would like to take the time to describe some of this for our audience as not everyone will be able to hear our new pieces in the November Town Hall concert and we will be able to present only a fraction of what we learned.

Many of you know that through my family, I have been listening to Bulgarian folk music since I was born and have been several times to the country. I wasn't introduced to the arranged choral music made so famous throughout the world by Philip Koutev until after college.  Much of what I heard growing up came from old records of the 50s, 60s, 70s, and 80s; Balkanton, Jugoton, Radio Televisia (add location here), etc. Other music was from field recordings made or collected by various American folk dance teachers. Anyone who has listened to folk dance music of these eras can hear the difference between it and the arranged multi-voice pieces which grew in popularity at the same time.Village singers traditionally learned from other family members or others in their same village. Professionally trained singers study in music schools and learn to sing the styling from all regions of Bulgaria. When learning with one master teacher, we were told that professional singers needed to change their vocal quality in order to sing in extremely high and low ranges as well as to maintain their singing voices for hours at a time. Traditional singers might sing for gatherings, holidays and festivals, even hours at a time, but not daily and certainly not in extreme ranges for their "chest voice".

All this is to set the background for the astounding amount of variability in vocal music that comes out of one small country, both in terms of vocal production and in terms of regional style.  This variability, even the small fraction of which Dunava attempts to faithfully represent, is no small feat to produce. My goal for Dunava on this trip was to hear as much distinct music from the "source" as possible in order that we can have the same understanding of what music we are trying to present. In this, we were largely successful. In musical selection and vocal presentation we strive to be as accurate as possible. Collectively experiencing on this trip that we attempt to emulate two sources in Bulgarian vocal music, village and professional ensemble, not just one, was vital for our choir. Through the connections of our guides, our friends, and our own, we were immersed in a range of singing professionalism; from individuals singing only their specific villages's songs to small town ensemble members presenting regional medleys, to other small town choirs singing pan-Bulgarian favorites (as opposed to village specific songs), to members of the great and internationally acclaimed vocal ensembles. This is by no means meant to rank anyone's ability, but rather to highlight the difference in what people sang for us and taught us.

The first music we heard was in Sofia, capital of the country and center of the Shope region.  Two amazing components, the Mitevi brothers and 3 musicians (kaval/end blown flute, gudulka/bowed lira, and tambura/long necked mandolin) who play in the national orchestras, graced our evening. Everyone was fabulous. (Note: I shan't list all names in this post as they should all be noted in previous posts about these events. If anyone wants more detail, please contact us). The professional musicians were trained so well that they provided backup music for the two Shope singers on 1 or 2 songs, backup for Tsvetanka's Thracian songs, and then favorite instrumental pieces from all over Bulgaria.  The two singers (Shope singing is mostly done with a melody line and a drone), presented a selection of unarranged songs with close second intervals and a distinct kind of vibrato that is only sung in the Shope area. Listen to the clips so you can hear the types of music shared with us that night.

Audio Sample: Mitevi Brothers

In Varna, a city five hours drive east to the opposite side of the country on the Black Sea, our evening music was played by the talented group "Pendari",  headed, I believe, by Nikolai Doctorov. This group of musicians were also members of  Ensemble Varna (the city's professional music, vocal and dance troupe equivalent to Sofia's Koutev Ensemble).  Interestingly enough, until the musicians played tunes local to the Dobrudzha region, the music was remarkably similar to what we heard from the musicians in Sofia. Once we began to hear melodies like Zborenka, Varnenski Kjuchek, Danets, and Ruka, then the music and musicianship took on a very different flavor despite the use of the same instrumentation.

Audio Sample: Varnenski Kjuchek

In Sredets, a town in the Strandzha region of southeast Bulgaria, our music was noticeably different from the beginning. We spent the evening with part of the group "Bozhura", a men's choir with musicians. Their songs (as all songs in the east part of Bulgaria), are sung in unison. Here they were accompanied by only bagpipe and drum (gaida and tupan). Percentage-wise there are far fewer men's vocal groups in Bulgaria. Group singing is often presented by women even though many men sing as soloists. The only other men's group we heard, "Banski Starcheta", was in Bansko, a town in the far southwest of Bulgaria, and the two choirs couldn't be more different. Though they both presented songs traditional to their regions,  the vocal production, ornamentation, and all the little components that make up a each groups style have little in common with each other.

Audio Sample: Bozhura

Audio Sample: Bansko

The last musical group I want to share is the "Boyana Ensemble" from the town of Kostandovo in the northwest foothills of the the Rhodope mountains. The Rhodopes are in the south of Bulgaria but the range is large enough that music from Kostandovo has little in common with typical Rhodope music even though it is geographically in the same region. (Being on the northwestern edge, it it is also geographically close to the Pirin mountains (read Pirin music style) and the end of the Thracian plains (read Thracian music style). Rhodope vocal music is almost always sung by a single singer accompanied by a gaida. A few girls learned some Rhodope songs during our lessons in Kotel. The music we heard in Kostandovo had dumbek (small hand drum), accordion, and tambura. Always in two-voices, melody and drone, variations of both men's and women's groups presented Pomashko and Kostandovo village songs. To my less experienced ear, the music sounded Pirin or Macedonian, but there is a subtle difference that I am not yet clear on as to what makes the music Pomashko. Tsvetanka tried to explain something about chords and rhythms but it the rush of the moment it somehow still didn't click for me. Regardless of my ignorance, note the large distinction between this music and the rest you have hard so far.

Audio Sample: Ensemble Boyana

Now, let's move onto the choir music which we learned from professional singers in Varna, Kotel, Pazardzhik, and Sofia. Here, location matters less, as these women sing arrangements from all over Bulgaria. Each specializes in her own home region and may more often solo with pieces from their home region, but they are masters of all. We studied two medleys from the Shope and Dobrudzhan regions, and then many single region pieces from Shope, Thrace, and unknown or pan-Bulgarian arrangements. Here are two samples of us learning arranged pieces (which we are not currently going to perform).

Audio Sample: Ogrejala (with Tzvetanka Varimezova and Pazardzhik Ensemble)

Audio Sample: Mori Djulber Sevdo (with Sashka Chenkova and Abagar Quartet)

The original state music ensembles of the 1950s were modeled directly after Soviet choirs (e.g. the Soviet Pyatnitzy Choir) but have ever after taken on a life of their own with a beautiful range and depth of music that far surpasses their original inspiration. Nowadays, many youth study "national" music in both folk music schools such as the one we stayed at in Kotel and in larger universities throughout the country. As a result, their is a natural standardization that has happened even within regional styles, but at the same time, a far greater number of people with unbelievable musical talent. More about this can be read elsewhere but for Dunava's part, we were able to experience this passing on of folk music by studying with singers of several generations; long time director of the Varna choir, Yordanka Nadyelcha, the 20s-30s professional singers brought in to the Kotel school from the Abagar quartet, and then some middle schooler/early teens who helped teach us in Bansko).

And with the above final sound clip, I will bid our readers adieu and keep this post to a readable length. I hope you have enjoyed hearing some of the amazing variety of music which Dunava was able to experience in Bulgaria this summer. We hope to share as much as we can with you throughout this next year. If you are near Seattle, don't forget to come to our Town Hall performance on November 8th. We'll be presenting much new music there and you're sure to enjoy the wonderful venue.

Enjoy, and Happy Music Making!

Ramona and Dunava

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Back in Seattle

Some of us have returned home and others are still exploring new places. Either way, we hope to continue to blogging as we recover from jet lag (takes about a week) and pick up the pieces of life here in Seattle.

Personally I've been through a lot of medical stuff in this past week, which I postponed so I could go to Bulgaria. I'll come out of in a few days.

To tide you over, here are photos of Jen and I sighing over an espresso vending machine at 5 am in the Sofia airport, and ooh-ing over our duty-free chocolates in the Frankfurt airport.




Monday, July 28, 2014

Patalenitsa festival/Sofia

Jen here. We performed in Patalenitsa, which our friend who has a daughter-in-law in Seattle informs us is the "Orange County" of Pazardzhik. There are nice properties and the mayor of Pazardzhik lives here (about 20 min. outside the center). It may be like Orange County as far as property values go, but I'm pretty sure there are no toilets like the one I experienced anywhere near Orange County!  We'll save you all the details, but as we neared the end of our trip, we were so happy to find restrooms with the basics: they flush, they're stocked with TP, there's soap, and a sink with running water. Any time we find one with all four, one of us shouts to the rest of the group, "It's a good one!"  
Here is where we performed, shortly after a giant thunderstorm. There were freshly fried doughnuts, 10 for 2 leva, which we devoured with powdered sugar before our performance.

It was such a thrill to perform for a small village -- everyone was gathered there. Smiling Bulgarian grandmothers, children, theater students visiting from England -- everyone was very welcoming. They seemed most pleased at our joint performance with the Pazardzhik Ensemble, Tzvetanka & Ivan. 

Our friend Sisi (Silvia) sang with her band, and Tzvetanka joined her on some duets.  The whole village joined in on one giant pravo, which I don't have a photo of because I was in it, too! 
Here are our friends from the Pazardzhik ensemble - sisters, who instead of being called Dolce & Gabbana, are jokingly referred to as Jordanche y Gergana, for their excellent fashion sense. 

At the end of the festival, we had dinner at a fancy hotel with a pool, and joked and laughed with our new friends in the Pazardzhik ensemble, amid clouds of cigarette smoke. The singer with the highest voice remarked, "If you smoke only at dinner, it'll make your voice higher!" If that were actually true, maybe we could all join the Pazardzhik ensemble! ;) 
We received wonderful gifts from Yanka, their director, but the most wonderful gift was sitting next to these powerful singers and learning from their vocal technique while learning songs together.  We're so grateful we got to work with them and hope to meet again soon! 

Next, we returned to Sofia. We did our final errands, like mailing postcards to our IndieGogo donors, and getting final souvenirs and sladolet (ice cream). 
We had a workshop with Binka Dobreva, who taught us some amazing Shope songs (all 3 sung at the same time!) 
We had the Last Supper, with snezhanka salad (also called Snow White salad, made with cucumbers, dill, onion & thick yogurt), lutenitsa (tomato & cheese sauce), bean salad, our final Shopska Salata, and grilled trout on the BBQ. I'm happy to report that I did indeed have Shopska salad every single day of our trip (14/14!) There were also chile relleno-esque stuffed peppers with egg & sirene cheese. So good! 
We were joined for dinner by the same musicians who played for us on our first night in Sofia, with the addition of Sasho on accordion, and Binka's lovely voice. 
Tzvetanka and Ivan had to leave for Burgas, so we were fortunate to have their friends take care of us on our last night in Bulgaria together.  Now, five of us are on our way back home with the Happiest Traveler. 
Many thanks to everyone who helped us get here, supported us from afar, and who await our return... Especially Scott, Dunes, Rik, Brian & Lydia, Rusty, Jon, David, Stuart, and Peter.


Sunday, July 27, 2014

Singing with the Pazardzhik Ensemble Choir

Dina here. The last three days we've spent in Pazardzhik, Tzvetanka's home town, and made a dream of mine come true: Singing with the women's choir of the Pazardzhik Ensemble. Tzvetanka used to direct this choir when she lived here, and is still a respected guest teacher when she's in town. I got to visit a workshop she did with them two years ago, and was so blown away by the sound of these women that I decided I needed to somehow connect them with Dunava.

So here we are! For the past three days we've been rehearsing together, lead by Tzetze, learning new songs and synching up a couple we all know to sing together. The goal was to perform at the annual village festival in Patalenitsa nearby, but the end was secondary -- the means was the actual point. Just sitting next to these talented singers with strong voices was an education in itself. These women are professional in the truest sense -- they rehearse four hours a day, five days a week, and are paid. (We're told the salary is not high enough to make a living, so all singers have other jobs, teaching or performing with other groups, or non-musical professions.)


This is such a great highlight of our trip. We've heard many true "village" ensembles, who preserve the music and singing in its traditional form; and here is a professional ensemble, which turns the village-style music into a refined art form. The original style is preserved, but the voice is trained. Plus, the multi-part arrangements are stunning, and there's nothing like singing a chord of stacked major and minor seconds and holding it at full volume!

We also had Tzvetanka to ourselves for a couple hours, where she talked more about Bulgarian singing technique and style, taught a four-part arrangement of a popular Shope duet, and at the same time bounced Eleanor so Meredith could focus on singing:


And outside of rehearsal there were other adventures: A visit to Plovdiv, a visit to the Pazardzhik zoo, some shopping, lots of ice cream (Raffy is our favorite brand!)... and of course the festival in Patalenitsa! I wonder who will blog next... :-)